At the Beginning
I woke up early this morning in Kupang, East Nusatenggara. I had to do so, as I needed to get to the airport and to catch the (only) flight to Larantuka this week. The taxi moved along a winding road in a hilly area that we had to pass on the way to El Tari International Airport. El Tari airport was 15 km east of Kupang connected with a quiet road with only one or two vehicles passing by. This is, by far, a different scene compared to Jakarta International Airport.
Casa 212 plane was parked in the tarmac, while 19 passengers bound to Larantuka boarded amidst a light drizzle. It was a small plane, and there were no flight attendants. A crew member (probably a ground crew) handed out meal boxes as the passengers entered the plane. That was all the service we got for the whole flight. The two propellers of this tiny plane rotated steadily and pulled the plane down the runway. As the pilot gradually increased the throttle, the plane sped up and took off with a slight shake, rattle and just a touch of roll to align with the flight path. One and a half hours later I spotted a small town at the base of a volcano. That was Larantuka with the Ili Mandiri volcano standing magnificently in the background.
Port Of LarantukaLarantuka is a town at the eastern part of Flores Island. Despite the isolation, this place attracted Portuguese traders searching for sandalwood and spices back in the 14th century. To accommodate this interest, they built forts and missions in this town. Today, in a much modernized day, Portuguese architecture in churches, chapels, as well as influences were still noticeable. Holy Mary chapel containing Portuguese bronze “ornamento”, statue of Mater Dolorosa, and Reinha Rosario were some of these influences. Furthermore, several traditional whale hunters still existed in the islands of Solor and Lembata around Larantuka. These people have performed the whale hunting ritual called the Leva long before Portuguese’s arrival.
There was an express ferry service connecting Larantuka and the nearby islands. The ferry was very comfortable with 200 seating capacity and 1.5 hours trip between Larantuka and Lewoleba (Lembata Island). For a quarter of the express ferry fare, people can also take the regular ferry, a wooden boat with 4 hours trip. The ferry left port of Larantuka and maneuvered between Adonara and Solor Islands heading for the first stop, a town called Waiwerang on the island of Adonara. Passengers disembarking here had to hop between wooden boats crowding the pier. It was a remarkable journey through waters around the islands with occasional views of smoking volcano. Arriving at Lewoleba pier on Lembata Island, bemos and motorcycle taxis (ojeks) offered their services to disembarking passengers. I took the bemo to get to Hotel Redjeki, one of the hotels in Lewoleba (the cleaner hotel compared to Hotel Lewoleba). I spent one night here, as the public transportation to the village of Lamalera only operated in the afternoon the next day.
The “Trans-Lembata Highway”
The public transportation to Lamalera village left Lewoleba terminal in the afternoon. It was a diesel truck (PS120) with the back converted for passengers by installing two long rows of sideway seats. A large speaker was hanging in the passenger room from which the pop and dangdut music blared. People seated next to the speaker had to cope with this for the whole 4-hour trip. I chose the seat as far away as possible from the speaker and managed to get the outermost seat. I thought this was the best seat, as it was far from the speaker, and it would provide me with better view. I was wrong, though. 50 meters from the terminal the truck had to pass a dry river with rocky beds, as the bridge above it collapsed a few months ago. After that, the road was winding and bumpy. A spent most of my time clinging to the railings behind me and on my side, as the road was bumpy and I was thrown off my seats several times. I remembered the “ejector seat” on fighter planes and felt that I was sitting on one. I suddenly thought that this was not the best seat after all, but all other seats were taken. It took a great skill to drive this big truck along this treacherous road. Meanwhile the fast-beat music roared from the speaker to accompany this ride along the “Trans-Lembata Highway”
4 shaky hours later I arrived at Mr. Abel Beding’s home stay, a clean accommodation that provided three meals a day for a reasonable price. The smell of something like dried fish was prominent in the village. It did not originate from a fish meat, but from slices of dried whale skin hanging in almost every home in Lamalera. They harpooned an 18-meter sperm whale last week. The story I heard in Larantuka a few days ago. Stacks of whale bones and skulls were also seen in many corners of this idyllic village. Apart from the whale-hunting tradition, Lamalera was a fishing village with strong catholic influences. Even their Leva ritual was now centered on a small chapel at the beach that happened to be the village’s central square.
The Hunters and Their Tools
There were three types of fishermen boat used in Lamalera: Layar, Johnson, and Paledangs. Layar were small canoes with sails that were used for fishing or catching
flying fish using nets. The Johnsons were wooden boats fitted with an outboard engine (Johnson brand) used for hunting dolphins/pilot whales. Paledangs were the traditional (and prestigious) whaling boats that were constructed according to the ancient model. These boats used rows as well as sail during a whale hunt. Nowadays, the Johnson boats were also used to tow these Paledangs when pursuing whales. Throughout the year, Paledang boats were stored in the huts. Only during Leva season from May 1st to September 30th that these boats were put to action.
Some people would constantly watch the water for signs of whales. When they’d seen the water spout from the whale’s blowhole, they would shout “BALEO!!” then the Paledangs and the Johnsons would scramble to the sea. Eight Paledangs were usually tied to one Johnson boat towing them close to the whales. About 10 to 5 meters from the whale, the tow ropes were released, and the Paledangs were on their own, rowing, chasing and harpooning the whales. A few years ago a Paledang harpooned a strong sperm whale that dragged them for 3 days (about 80 km) to the open sea. In the end the boat was destroyed, the crew was rescued, and the whale got away. Paledang boats had a special place in Lamalera tradition, as they were believed to link current generation with the ancestors. Loss of a Paledang boat would mean a great loss for villagers, and a specific ritual was necessary to “let go” the lost Paledang.
One unique thing about Paledang was that the fact the boat was built using neither steel, nor nails. All parts were tied up using ropes and the boat specs were defined by their ancestors. This was probably the reason why Paledangs were links to generations of whale hunters using technology developed centuries ago. Any deviation from the specification would result in disastrous consequences during whale hunt, as Paledangs should have high maneuverability and most would withstand attack of an angry whale.
The Soul of the Village
It was Saturday morning, and many women carried baskets on their heads. They were headed to village called Wulandoni for a barter market. Women from Lamalera brought dried fish and whale meat for exchange with other good (beans, corns, and fruits) at the market. Every Saturday women lined up on the beach waiting for their turn to board the Johnson boat that would take them to the market. Other took the passenger truck, while the rest walked. When they were not busy at the market, Lamalera women kept them occupied weaving beautiful ikat with whale, Paledang, or other motifs.
Other than sperm whales, other marine mammals were also abundant around Lamalera. Animals such as spinner dolphins (Stenella longirostris), Pilot whales (globicephala melas), and sometimes killer whales (Orcinus orca) were commonly sighted in the waters around the village. Two or three pods of these mammals often surrounded Lamalera fishermen at sea.
To most people, Lamalera was all about whale hunting. Baleo! At the sight of Koteklema (Sperm whale) followed by people pushing the Paledang and Johnsons boats to pursue the mighty giant, and the brave hunter who leaped on to the whale’s back using a harpoon to stab the whale at a lethal point. However, Lamalera was beyond all that. It was about people embracing their age-old custom, keeping tradition intact despite the modernization. It was about ancient technology kept alive without major modifications. Lamalera was a time machine that would take any visitor for a remarkable journey, a journey back in time.
